Odusan
The easiest place from Seoul to see North Korea up close
Visitors at Odusan Unification Observatory use telescopes to watch the North Korean bank of the Han River, less than two kilometres away
The Odusan Observatory, in Paju City, is the closest place to Seoul from which you can observe North Korea without having to book a tour or go through any kind of lengthy security screening.
The observatory sits atop a hill at the confluence of the Han and Imjin rivers. It offers a beautiful view of the North Korean village of Maegon and its “Tower of Immortality”, which every North Korean municipality is required to erect in memory of the eternal President Kim Il Sung and the great leader Kim Jong Il.
South Korea describes Maegon as a ‘propaganda village’ that is not really inhabited. But the fact is that people who look like real human beings can often be seen strolling through the streets or working in the fields.
Maegon village, in North Korea, and its “Tower of Immortality”
North Korean propaganda can also be heard over loudspeakers. Especially at nightfall, when the North broadcasts all manner of appalling sounds (automatic weapons fire, wolves howling, cries of the damned, horror film soundtracks, explosions, etc.) to disturb the sleep of its southern neighbours.
North Korean watchtower on the bank of the Han River and Maegon village (April, 2023).
The virtual absence of fortifications on the north side (whereas the south side of the border is sealed off with barbed wire, watchtowers, surveillance cameras and so on) may also raise questions. But there are reasons for this. I'll come back to this later.
The Odusan Observatory itself features various observation terraces, exhibition rooms, a convenience store and a well-designed café from where you can watch the “Worker’s Paradise” while sipping a capitalist iced americano or taking a power nap.
Ladies take a nap at the stylish Odusan Observatory café, overlooking North Korea
Odusan is the closest North Korea observatory to Seoul. Despite its proximity to the Military Demarcation Line, the site is located outside the Civilian Control Zone. Which means this is one of the few cross-border observatories where anyone can go without having to take part in an organised tour, show their passport or go through any formalities whatsoever. Also, you can stay here as long as you like, subject to closing and opening times.
The observatory is home to a number of interesting curiosities, including the so-called “Unification Piano”. Built in 2015 by the Korean World music band Gong Myoung, the instrument uses rusty barbed wire collected from the Demilitarized zone (DMZ) in place of standard piano strings, and is said to produce a unique sound (even if the public is not allowed to try).
Finally, Odusan is an opportunity to experience first-hand the paradox of Korea's division. Watching from the top of the observatory as the busy Highway 77 linking Seoul to its northern suburbs passes indifferently along the edge of the world's most dangerous border is utterly disconcerting.
For further information:
Odusan Observatory (official website, Korean only)
